Kashmir is a captivating destination that entices tourists with its stunning natural beauty and cultural splendour. Renowned as the "Paradise on Earth," this picturesque region nestled in the Himalayas offers a plethora of attractions for visitors.
Best time to Visit:
My personal suggestion is to visit between February - March. If you love to be surrounded by snow and windchill temperature then February is the month else March is the month for a mix of snow and greenery and much bearable weather.
April to May is the peak season, however, chances of snowfall are zero and limited snow is available only to Gulmarg (Phase 2 Gondola) and Pahalgam (Chandanwari). This is the time if you are traveling with aged parents or kids.
October to January is the full winter with sub zero temperature. Travel only if you are looking for adventure. I would suggest not to make a strict plan instead take the additional days for any unforeseen issues. To be avoided if you are planning with kids and parents.
June to September is also to be avoided due to the rainy season. There are no indoor activities to do in Kashmir and you have to confine yourself to the hotel if the weather goes against your plan.
How to Reach:
Srinagar is your way in and out to visit the Kashmir Valley. Direct flights are available from major cities like Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore, etc. Connecting flights via Jammu can also be considered as layover time is very minimal. Flight is the most preferred way to Kashmir as the train network is still not great in the region. You can also prefer to drive if you are from Delhi. I have seen many non J&K registered vehicles and passing without any hurdles.
Where to Stay:
Hotels in Kashmir Valley are concentrated in very few areas providing good proximity to the tourist attractions. Budget is the only thing to be considered while booking the hotel. I suggest not to pay extra for the view as it will be super cold and trust me you will not leave bed once you reach the hotel. I will suggest the below budget and decent hotels:
Gulmarg - Hotel Affrawat
Pahalgam - The Pahalgam Pines
Srinagar - Zostel
Many prefer Houseboats in Srinagar, however, it didn't excite me much. Rooms are much more hygienic compared to the houseboat. Dal Lake is not what used to be and too much garbage surrounding the boats.
Budget:
The majority of the budget during the trip will go for your travel. If you are traveling as a group of four, cab expenses will be reduced. Food expenses are less as most of the time your lunch will be just Maggi or Omelette only. Carry enough energy bars or packed food with you. Budget is as on March 2023.
Srinagar Return Flights : Rs.10000
Hotel (per day Rs.2000) : Rs.12000
Food (per day Rs.1000) : Rs.7000
Cab (per day Rs.1000) : Rs.3500
Gondola tickets : Rs.1500
Winter Sports : Rs.2500
Shopping : Rs.3500
Total : Rs. 40,000 per head
Summary of Itinerary:
Many itineraries available for Kashmir include one day stay each for Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg. However, I always believe that one day stay at any place becomes only a checkbox thing during your travel. If you really want to explore the place then at least two day stay is required wherever you go. Below is the itinerary I followed and the subsequent section covers more details:
Day 1 : Mumbai - Srinagar - Gulmarg
Day 2 : Gulmarg Gondola Ride
Day 3 : Gulmarg - Pahalgam (Baisaran and Pehalgam Market)
Day 4 : Chandanwari - Betaab Valley - Aru Valley in Pahalgam
Day 5 : Pahalgam - Srinagar via Avantipur Ruins
Day 6 : Srinagar Day Tour
Day 7 : Srinagar - Mumbai
If you have additional days in hand then below are more options:
One/two days for Sonamarg. I have excluded this from the itinerary as I planned to cover this when traveling from Srinagar to Leh.
Additional day in Pahalgam, if you are looking for treks in the region. A few notable treks are Sheshnag Lake, Tulian Lake, Lidderwat, Sora Sar Lake, etc.
Day 1 (Mumbai - Srinagar - Gulmarg):
You can book an as early flight as possible from your home city. Many times these flights are connecting either via Delhi or Jammu. You should not miss the snow capped mountains from the flight which are the first glimpse of your tour.
Best case scenario is to reach Srinagar by afternoon. Even if you are delayed till evening there are no issues. You get direct cabs from airport to Gulmarg at fixed and reasonable cost. Just outside the airport there is a counter for booking the cab, depending upon the number of people and luggage, the vehicle will be assigned and you can start the journey within 15 mins. We got Chevrolet Tavera for 4 people and costed us Rs. 2800. The journey from Srinagar to Gulmarg is mesmerizing and full of hairpin turns (ghats). It will take close to 2.5 hours to reach. You can rest for the day after tiring but intimidating travel.
(Video)
If you can reach Gulmar by afternoon, go for a trek in the woods of Khilanmarg. This is the least rated activity, however, the most exciting one if you are young and looking for adventure. Khilanamarg is the place where you will trek and it starts adjacent to the Gondala base station. You must take a guide with you, Mr. Noor (6006469369) is one reliable guy. He will take you close to the Phase 1 Gondola Station. Very few take this trek so it looks like everything is for you. At the start of the trek there are few shops, however, as you go more upwards you won't find any.
Day 2 (Gulmarg Gondola Ride):
The key attraction for Gulmarg is the Gondola Ride which is a full day activity. It is one of the highest and longest cable car rides in the world, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.
The tickets for Gondola to be booked beforehand and online. Both Phase 1 and Phase 2 tickets to be booked separately. Do not rely on offline tickets. Also, you should reach the base station by 7am to beat the crowd. The more you delay, the more time you will be in queue. Every 1 hour delay will add 2 hours in queue.
Phase 1: Ticket Price - Rs. 750
The first phase of the Gondola ride takes you from the Gulmarg base station to the Kongdoori Station, which is situated at an altitude of approximately 8,530 feet. However, I suggest not to spend any time at Phase 1 and directly go for Phase 2. Phase 1 is only for those who have difficulty with height as the second phase will take you almost double the altitude.
Phase 2: Ticket Price - Rs. 960
The second phase of the Gondola ride continues from Kongdoori Station to the Apharwat Peak, reaching an altitude of around 13,780 feet. Phase 2 offers you glorious snow, great views, winter sports, cool breeze and many spots for photoshoots without worrying about photobombing. Hard negotiation required if you are going for winter sports like skiing, sledding, etc. There are some shops selling snack items, however, a full meal is not available. You should keep energy bars with you. There is also a medium trek to nearby Alpather Lake from Phase 2. This blog can be referred for the same.
Chairlift:
Chairlift is different from the Gondola. It is available from Kongdoori Station and goes to Marry Shoulder. This is place where many skiing events takes place. If you are coming for a sole intention of skiing you can opt for this. However, many times the Chairlift is not operational and tickets are not sold online.
Once you come down, visit the Shiv Mandir at the centre of Gulmarg Golf Course. You should not miss the sunset from this place.
Day 3 : Gulmarg - Pahalgam (Baisaran and Pahalgam Market)
Today you will be travelling from Gulmarg to Pahalgam. A day prior, you can get the cab arranged with the help of hotel reception. The cab will cost you around 5k (after negotiating) and it will take a total of 4 hours including a lunch break and in between stops. You will see many shops selling Pashmina and Dryfruits and the driver will insist you to stop, but you should not buy things here as they are very costly (driver's cut is included). Instead, all shopping to be done in Lal Chowk (Srinagar) only.
Pahalgam is unlike Gulmarg and there are many places to explore around. The town is situated on the banks of the Lidder River and is a popular tourist destination, especially during the summer months. It serves as a base camp for trekkers and pilgrims visiting the holy Amarnath Cave. Place to be strictly avoided once Amarnath Yatra starts as the inflow crowd increases exponentially and the service level goes down.
On the other hand, cab service in Pahalgam is very much sorted and fixed price across the town. Refer to the below screenshot of the association. One strange rule is that they halt only one hour at each location which is definitely not enough. However by paying Rs. 500 additional you can extend by one hour. If you are on a tight budget then this can be easily managed by choosing the less comfortable car like EECO Van instead of Innova/Xylo.
The day you reach, you can explore the Baisaran which is also known as Mini Switzerland. 3km of trek is required to Baisaran, however, considering the surroundings you won't find it difficult. Pony rides are available but you should avoid them. Charges can be anything from 500 to 2000 depending upon the crowd and negotiation skills. Visit Baisaran only if there is snow, else there is nothing much to do, instead visit the nearby Poshewan Park nearby for relaxation. After that you can exlore the Pahalgam Market, which is nearby to the Baisaran. Many hotels, cafes, food joints are also available in the area where you can have the dinner.
Day 4: Chandanwari - Betaab Valley - Aru Valley in Pahalgam
This is the day you have multiple options depending on the season you are visiting and intentions:
Option 1 (Winter) - Chandanwari and Baisaran
Option 2 (Summer) - Full day trek in the mountains of Aru Valley
The first option is the least hectic and easily doable. If you are visiting in February-March, then you should opt for the first option to indulge in all the snow activities which are the USP. You can book a whole day cab (7 hours) for the same. First visit to Chandanwari, this is the only place where you will find the snow even in May month. The good thing is that the cab will drop you to the point from where snow is hardly 200m. You can walk along the route of Amarnath Yatra till the point you can. One great location is Sheshnag Lake along this route, however, a guide is must and one full day is required for the same.
After Chandanwari head towards Betaab Valley Park. The valley named after the Bollywood movie "Betaab" that was shot there, is a popular tourist spot known for its beautiful meadows and the confluence of the Lidder and Sheshnag rivers. It's a huge park with a nominal entry fee and is open till 8pm. There are enough eateries in the park serving both snacks and meals. The place is full of spots for photoshoot and that's the thing you should indulge in.
Option 2 is trek in Aru Valley. The Aru Valley is all about treks and it serves as a base camp to nearby places like Lidderwat, Kolahoi Glacier, and Tarsar Marsar. All these treks are moderate to difficult levels. You should book a guide or join trek group in advance. River rafting is also available on the way to Aru Valley and needs to be pre-booked.
Day 5: Pahalgam - Srinagar via Avantipur Ruins
Today you will be travelling from Pahalgam to Srinagar. The cab can be pre-booked at the fixed rate. Many times you can make connections with any cab drivers there and he can take you at the rate less than association. You can also discuss the same with hotel reception. Also, let the driver know that you will be taking 1hr stop at Avantipur Ruins.
The Avantipur Ruins date back to the 9th century AD and were built during the reign of King Avantivarman of the Utpala dynasty. The ruins represent the remnants of two ancient Hindu temples dedicated to Lord Vishnu.
Plan your lunch in between and try to reach Srinagar by 2-3 pm. Srinagar, the summer capital, is known for its stunning natural beauty, serene lakes, and Mughal gardens. The stop for your day is Sikhara Ride in Dal Lake and Nishat garden.
Dal Lake is the iconic symbol of Srinagar. It is a vast, picturesque lake encompassed by majestic mountains. Taking a shikara ride (traditional wooden boat) on the Dal Lake is a must-do experience. Hard negotiation is a must. There is a mini structure in the middle of the lake and add that stop during your Sikhara Ride. You can get down and click some photos.
Later you can take a walk in Nishat Garden. Nishat Bagh is a terraced garden that spans over 12 levels, each representing a Zodiac sign. You will be back in the hotel by 8pm. There is no point roaming around late at night in Srinagar.
Day 6: Srinagar Day Tour
Today you will take a day tour in and around Srinagar. Below are the major attractions:
1. Tulip Garden or Shalimar Garden
The Tulip Garden is known for its vibrant display of tulips during the spring season, usually from late March to early May. This period is when the flowers are in full bloom, and the garden comes alive with a riot of colors. The garden to be visited during the blossom only else you can visit the Shalimar Garden. You can check the news about Tulip events before the visit.
2. Pari Mahal
Later move to Pari Mahal, a historic monument located atop Zabarwan Mountain range. It is also clearly visible from the Tulip Garden. It offers breathtaking views of the city and serves as a serene spot for nature lovers.
2. Shankaracharya Temple
Mini trek up to the Shankaracharya Temple, perched on a hilltop. Apart from the religious significance, the temple offers panoramic views of the city and the surrounding mountains.
5. Lal Chowk Shopping
End you day with shopping in Lal Chowk. This is the regular market and way cheaper compared to the tourist market which are on the way to Gulmarg and Pahalgam. Those shops to be strictly avoided as same items are available in Lal Chowk at half the price without any bargain.
Day 8:
Leave from Srinagar with happy memories. Reach at least two hours before your flight time.
Things to remember:
Gondola tickets to be brought online only on J&K tourism website.
I prefer not to take a pony ride, however, if needed then bargain hard as I have seen people paying from 500 to 3000 for the same ride. The same goes for snow activities like skiing, sledding, etc.
Do not buy anything on the route to Gulmarg and Pahalgam. All those are tourist shops and the same items can be bought at half the price at Lal Chowk Srinagar.
Only postpaid connections work in the valley.
Download local area maps to easy navigation when not in network.
Guides are must if you going on treks.
Carry enough cash. Sometimes network will not be there for online payments and ATMs are not always reliable.
Carry comfortable winter wear, shoes and first aid.
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